Muztag-Ata Peak (7546 m)
Area description
East suburb of Pamirs Mountains is bordered by a circuit of high mountain ranges. They tower like a huge wall above oases of Kashgar and desert TaklaMakan. The arch of ranges begins from east suburbs of width Trans Alai and, turning on a southeast, passes in a King - Òàu ridge. From the following on the south meridian Kashgar range it is separated by a wide valley of reddish Gez-Daria. Upwards of Tashkurgan-daria separate Kashgar Range from continuing this huge circuit of ranges Tashkurgan and Chonkyr closed with Western Kun-Lun (Lunar Mountains).
Thus, the supreme points of Kashgar Range Muztag-Ata (7546 m) and Kongur (7719 m) lay on crossing of axial lines of many ranges. Different researchers carry them both as to East Pamir, and to Western Kun-Lun. The range carries on itself a significant ice-cover (the general area - 2258 km). On Kongur there are some tens of glaciers, largest of them more than 15 km at length. 16 glaciers go down from ice dome of Muztag-Ata. The largest is Koksel (length more than 23 km)
Bottoms of ranges in the west and a southwest are located at heights of 3800-4000 m., slopes have rather quiet outlines though are rather abrupt. Tongues of glaciers are located at heights about 4500 m. To the east and northeast Ranges of Kongur and Muztag-Ata break with three – four km cliff-ice walls. Here is located the whole highland extremely seldom visited because of full absence of roads. Valleys cut in mush deeper, than in the west, the rivers in some places flow in canyons and marks of tongues of glaciers are about 3500-4000 m. On northern slopes woods from firs, archa and Tien-Shan fur-trees here and there are kept.
Historical stages of conquest of Muztag-Ata Peak
In 50th between China and Soviet Union good diplomatic relations were established that has allowed the Soviet climbers to get in area.
In 1956 the mountaineering has been officially authorized as a kind of sports in China. The organization of the Soviet-Chinese expedition on Muztag-ata in July 1956 was significant achievement. Never before in a history of climbing such amount of people did not make simultaneously first ascending without accidents to such high mountain. On July, 6 the big expedition headed by E.A.Beletskiy and leaders of teams K.K.Kuzmin and Shi Zanchun, have achieved by cars base camp 4060 at bottom of mountain. After studying aerial photographs, the route by slope of top dividing glaciers Janbulak and Choltumak has been chosen. Bulls were used up to the bottom edge of the ice fields terminating at height of 5500 m (2 camp). Ice-fall was above. 3 camp 6200 has been established on July, 13. To July, 21 at height of 6800 m have been organized 4 high-altitude camp. Storm has been planned for July, 26. On July, 30 the assault group has achieved height 7200 and has established last (5-th) high-altitude camp. On July, 31 after 6 hours of promotion in a deep snow at top stood 31 ascenders (19 Soviet and 12 Chinese)!
Since 1956 the height of Muztag-Ata tops has been established - 7546 m.
The next 24 years in these mountains there were no foreign climbers.
Nevertheless, ascensions in area did not interrupt.
In 1959 the second ascension to Muztag-Ata has been accomplished. 33 from 50 ascenders got to the top, among them 8 women.
When relations between China and the USSR have deteriorated, mentions about the Soviet-Chinese success in 1956 have disappeared from official Chinese sources, and as date of first ascending 1959 year was mentioned.
In 1980 the area was officially opened for foreigners. On July, 21 three Americans have ski down from Muztag-Ata.
In June of 1981 three Japanese have ski down from Muztag-Ata and then have joined expedition on northern side of Kongur.
On 7-th of August two members of expedition from 4 people, including leader Sakahara and Kimihara Matsui, have made first ascension on to lower (approximately 7500 ì) northern top of Muztag-Ata. On 16-th of September the incorporated American - Canadian group of 3 people (Lloyd Gallaher, Pat Murroy and Steven Bezruchka) have ski down from Muztag-Ata by new, more southern route.
Routes
- Personal expedition equipmentSnow shovel
- Hi altitude tents for intermediate camps
- Sunglasses
- First-aid Kit
- Headlamp with extra batteries
- Cooking equipment
- Multifuel stove
- Sun-blocking cream Ice-axe
- Plastic double boots for snow climbing
- Crampons
- Rockets
- Teleskoping sticks
- Seat harness with locking carabiner
- Rope (not more than 8 mm)
- Sleeping bag
- Sleeping pad
