Historical stages of conquest of Pobeda Peak

1937. Participants of expedition (head A.A.Letavet) from Soviet Constitution peak have considered a panorama of majestic tops of Tengri-Taga. Already then they have assumed that the top laying to the south from Khan Tengri, surpasses it on height.

In 1938 Letavet has again led expedition in Central Tien Shan. His purpose was to make ascension on the anonymous top conditionally named peak "Zvezdochka". Three ascenders from expedition - Gutman, Ivanov and Sidorenko- on September, 19 have risen to ridge of mountain range Kok-Sholtau, in area of east shoulder of Pobeda peak, and have named the top achieved by them "XX-anniversary ILCUY"

Thus, ascenders were on the ridge conducting to top which lay from them on distance of 3-5 km and about 500 m is higher. Comparison of the pictures made by Gutman and Ivanov from top of 20-anniversary ILCUY Peak in 1938 with pictures of group of V.Abalakov who has risen to Pobeda Peak in 1956, has shown, that they were made from the same place. It had been proved identity of peaks of 20-anniversary ILCUY and Pobeda, and also is established, that pre-first ascending on this top has been accomplished on September, 19, 1938 by Leonid Gutman, Eugeny Ivanov and Alexander Sidorenko.

In 1955 attempt of ascension of 12 people has ended with tragedy. On slopes of mountain during a bad weather was lost 11 people. In alive has remained only Kazakh U.Usenov.

In 1956 the intention to storm Pobeda Peak was declared by climbers of society "Spartak" and climbers of Kazakhstan. participation of team "Spartak" which those years was one of the strongest in Soviet Union and management of expedition and ascension leaded by the deserved master of sports of V.Abalakov - the captain of this team already much predetermined. The decision on association of both expeditions was accepted also, and ascenders have started the systematic, comprehensively thought over preparation. General physical training of all participants of expedition was spent on coast of high-mountainous Lake Issyk Kul. During same time the accompanying groups supervised by A.Poljakov, organized base camp, caravan transfers, adjusted connection, meteorological service and many other things. At last in July high-altitude training and preparation of storm began. Participants of the future ascension repeatedly rose on slopes of northern ridge of Pobeda Peak, preparing camps for storm of top, equipping them with caves, deserting here equipment and the foodstuffs. In these rises on escalating height climbers have received reliable acclimatization and have studied a condition of a route. Before an exit on ascension all its participants had in the active training rise up to height of 6200 m. 

August is already ending. Preparations are ended, the route is prepared, and weather forecast is favorable. The structure storming is specified. They are 11 - the deserved masters of sports V.Abalakov, N.Gusak, I.Leonov; masters of sports J.Arkin, P.Budanov, V.Kizel, L.Filimonov; climbers - arresters K.Kletsko, S.Musaev, J.Tur and U.Usenov - the only survived participant of expedition of the Kazakh climbers in 1955. 

The group goes confidently. Ahead is investigation – Abalakov, Gusak, Budanov, Filimonov. On each camp there is a deep spacious cave. The bad weather is waited in "comfortable conditions", and again upwards, forward. At last on August, 30, 1956 the group leaves from a camp of 7000 m and with its full complement achieves the supreme point of mountain. This is the second, since 18 years, ascension on this top and about simultaneously first ascension to the top carrying a proud name of Pobeda Peak. 

With ascension of incorporated team of "Spartak" and the Kazakh committee of physical culture and sports has ended the first stage of struggle for the second on height top of the USSR. It began rather easily with ascension lead in 1938, has passed through tragically failures and has been finished by the victorious storm designed up to trifles.

Routes

Personal expedition equipment

• Snow shovel 
• Hi altitude tents for intermediate camps 
• Sunglasses 
• First-aid Kit 
• Headlamp with extra batteries 
• Cooking equipment 
• Multifuel stove 
• Sun-blocking cream Ice-axe 
• Plastic double boots for snow climbing 
• Crampons 
• Teleskoping sticks 
• Seat harness with locking carabiner 
• Rope (not more than 8 mm) 
• Sleeping bag 
• Sleeping pad