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Communism Peak (7495 m)
expedition and climbing in 2019
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Communism Peak (7495 m)
expedition and climbing in 2019

The high-rise pole of the country — Communism Peak (or Ismail Somoni Peak) (7495 m) is in northwest part of Pamir, on a joint of ridges of Akademii Nauk and Peter I. Honor of opening of ridge of Peter I belongs to V. F. Oshanin (1880), ridge of Academy of Sciences — to N. L. Korzhenevsky (1927). The peak of Somoni (Ex-communism) is the highest top of Pamir and the former USSR. The first ascension on top was made by Evgeny Abalakov in 1933 as a part of Tajik-Pamir expedition of Academy of Sciences of the USSR from a glacier Camp.

On the western slopes of top, at the height about 6000 m, the unique Pamir neve plateau breaking to glaciers Fortambek and Walter from the North and to Belyaev’s glacier from the South kilometer steep walls was stretched. Classical routes of ascension go on top through a neve plateau from a glacier Fortambek, on an edge of the Petrel, and from Walter’s glacier, on Borodkin’s edge.

Communism (Somoni) peak climb

Route description

The safest route for Communism peak climbing leads from the Walter Glacier bivouac (4500 m) to and across the Big Pamir Plateau (at about 6000 m, 3 km wide by 12 km long). The ascent of Peak Dunshabe (6950 m) follows and the main summit is reached by a long and steep ice slope.

Hike up the Walter Glacier. Traverse through northern slope (4 — 5 hrs).

To the Camp (5300 m). Hiking up by the right side of the moraine of the Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier by the ice plateau under the walls of Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross it as early as possible and at maximum speed. Further the route follows by rock section to the crest (about 6-7 hours).

Camp (5300 m) — Camp (5800 m). Northern ridge (4-5 hrs). This part of the route is technically not difficult, wide snow crest with parts of 35-40 degrees steepness. The camp is located in mould.

Camp (5800 m) — Camp (6100 m). Pamir big Plateau (4-5 hrs). Early start and ascent to the two-headed summit. Climbing in roped-party. Traverse to the left to the top and then descent to Pamir Big Plateau.

Camp (6900 m) — northern snow/ice slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Early start. Climbing in roped-party. An ascent is technically easy. After ascent to Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7000 m.) descent to the camp at 6900m.

Camp (6900 m) — summit — back to camp (6900 m) (8-9 hrs). Early start. The route climbs up the steep snow slope to the rocks. Above this, there is an exposed part leads to the summit.

Communism Peak (7495 m) <br>expedition and climbing in 2019

Program of expedition:

Date
Program
Day 1 05.07.19
19.07.19
Arrival to  Dushanbe and transfer to Jirgital (7 hours). Accommodation at guest-house.
Day 2/3 06-07.07.19
20-21.07.19
Helicopter flight to Base Camp or additional night at guest-house in case of bad weather
Days 4/29 07.07.19-03.08.19
21.07.19-17.08.19
Acclimatization & Climbing period
Meal: Full board.
Day 30/31 03-04.08.19
17-18.08.19
Helicopter flight to Jirgital and transfer to Dushanbe (or one night at Jirgital). Accommodation in hotel
Day 32 05.08.19
19.08.19
Departure transfer to airport and flight home

The cost of full package program in 2019: 2450 USD per person

The cost includes:

  • Obtaining all necessary documents and permissions
  • Meeting / seeing off at Dushanbe airport
  • All land transfers according to the program
  • Return helicopter flight Dushanbe — BC (Moskvina Glade) — Dushanbe with 30kg of personal luggage (overweight – 4,5 USD/kg)
  • Accommodation at guest-house in Jirgital (full board, 1 night)
  • Accommodation at a hotel in Dushanbe (3* with breakfast, based on Twin room share, 2 nights)

Service at Base Camp:

  • Accommodation in shared (2-3 persons) tents (tents in the Base Camp are improved with wooden flooring, and electric lighting)
  • Full board (variety of food including vegetarian, 3 meals a day from professional chef, possibility for special personal ordering)
  • Toilets, storage tent at BC
  • Sauna (steam room) at BC
  • Medical services (by professional doctor) in BC
  • Electric supply 220V; 50HZ
  • High-altitude guide consultancy services
  • Registration with rescue team

The cost does not include:

  • The cost of visa support (if needed) and visa fees (cost of e-visa is 50 USD + 20 USD for GBAO permit. You can apply for e-visa here)
  • International flights
  • Personal equipment and high altitude food
  • High-altitude guide’s and/or porter’s service
  • Rescue works in case of incident (required insurance policy with coverage not less than 10.000 Euro)

Additional charge service:

  • New gas canisters (230 mg) – 9 USD/gas canister
  • Rent of high altitude tent — 8 USD/per day
  • Rent of walky-talky – 5 USD/pair/per day
  • Services of a mountain guide – 50 Euro/day
  • Wi-Fi access to Internet — 15 USD/per hour
  • Services of porters for ascending:
    — (4200m – 5300m) — 8 USD/kg,
    — (5300m – 5800m) — 12 USD/kg,
    — (5800m – 6300m) — 20 USD/kg,
    — (6300m and higher) — 28 USD/kg.

Also, you can see our other 7000 meter peaks expeditions:

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