Tengri-Tag ridge, in eastern part of which is Khan-Tengri Peak, origins in the west from the place of confluence northern and southern branches of Inylchek glacier with top of 5211 m steeply rising of rocky cliff called “Battleship”, which divided the flows of Inylchek glacier. Undoubtedly, the Jewel of the Tien Shan is the wonderful pyramid of Khan-Tengri . Khan-Tengri peak, which is situated in the northerly and remote part of the great Asian mountains, takes the second place among the highest mounts.
However, discoverers of the Peak did not leave any geographical coordinates, or simply description of its location. Passed more than 1,200 years till famous Russian traveler P.P. Semenov, subsequently received proud prefix «Tian-Shansky,» during his travels in Tian-Shan Mountains in 1857 from the crest of Terskey Alatau saw a chain of snow giants, and among of them the Peak, well-known from ancient times.
The local people call the white peaks ‘The Mountains of Heaven’. It was a Soviet expedition which first conquered the summit of Khan-Tengri peak in 1931, via the West Ridge and West Col. Soviet teams have climbed the majority of Khan-Tengri’s faces and ridges since then.
The West Ridge for Khan Tengri climbing is a classic route that presents a reasonable objective for competent mountaineers. The ridge rises from the West Col, which is very enjoyable, straightforward ‘scrambling’ for the most part, with steep rocky steps linked with snow patches.
There are only a couple of sections which require more care; such as the vertical rock step of about 50ft at 6,800m and the knife above. In terms of equipment needed once on the route, a single ice axe is sufficient, although the addition of a ski pole might be useful.
From the snow caves (near the West Col) a short snow/ice slope of 40o, which is fixed with rope, leads up to the West Col (6000m). The Col is narrow and heavily corniced and the top of the fixed ropes should be carefully noted. A traverse along the Col leads to the mixed ground of the West Ridge where the angle steepness. The route then follows the West Ridge via a number of small bivouac sites at 6200m, 6400m and 6700m.
Almost the entire ridge is fixed with rope, but these need to be used with caution as their condition and the anchors are variable (the ropes are renewed at the beginning of every summer season by local guides). The route follows the crest of the ridge with snow and scrambling interspersed with steeper rock sections until 6,700m. Here a traverse rightwards across snow slopes reaches a steep rock step of some 20m which is severe in standard.
Above this the route climbs into a snow basin and then traverses out rightwards again to exit onto a short steep knife edged snow ridge of some 50m which is very exposed. This is followed leftwards to a steeper section of mixed ground.
Above this, the fixed rope ends and there remains around 300m of easy snow climbing for half an hour to reach the summit. The true summit is rather difficult to find, being a large flat snow dome, so the summit point is marked by a metal tripod.
The descent from the summit is very quick using the fixed ropes. The snow caves can be reached in about 3 hours.
It’s a suggested ascending itinerary from «South side» you can use during your expedition
Day 1. Arrival to Almaty/Bishkek, transfer to Base Camp «Karkara». Overnight in tent in BC. Day 2. Rest day or acclimatization hiking near camp. Day 3. Helicopter flight to Base Camp «South Inylchek» Day 4. Rest and acclimatization. Day 5. Rest and acclimatization. Day 6. Ascent to the camp 4200 m. Day 7. Ascent to the camp 5500 m. Day 8. Ascent to the camp 5900 m. Day 9. Descent to the Base Camp «South Inylchek» Day 10. Rest day. Day 11. Rest day. Day 12. Ascent to the camp 4200 m. Day 13. Ascent to the camp 5900 m. Day 14. Ascent to the camp 6400 m. Day 15. Ascent to the summit 7010 m. and descent to the camp 5900 m. Day 16. Descent to the Base Camp. Day 17. Reserve day. Day 18. Reserve day. Day 19. Helicopter flight to Base Camp «Karkara» and drive to Almaty/Bishkek. Accommodation and overnight in a hotel or guest-house. Day 20. Transfer to airport and departure
Arrival to Bishkek. Meeting at the airport and transfer to a hotel or guest-house (standard check-in time). Free day.
In the morning transfer to «Karkara» Base Camp.
Arrival to Almaty, meeting at the airport and transfer to «Karkara» Base Camp, accommodation in tents.
Helicopter flight to Base Camp «South Inylchek»
Climbing period to Khan-Tengri Peak
Helicopter flight to Base Camp «Karkara». Transfer to Almaty or Bishkek, accommodation in a hotel or guest-house.
Free day in Almaty or Bishkek.
Transfer to airport and departure.
Special Features of this package!
Experienced high altitude guide:
— 1 guide for 1-3 climbers
— 1 guide + 1 assistant for 4-6 climbers
— 1 guide + 2 assistance for 7-10 climbers
Installed high altitude tents (3 persons in a tent!)
Provided group equipment: rope (if needed), gas and gas stoves, cooking set.
Set of High altitude products
The price of full package from Almaty:
1 person — 3200 USD
2 persons — 3050 USD/per person
3 persons — 2950 USD/per person
4 persons — 2900 USD/per person
5 persons and more — 2850 USD/per person
The price of full package from Bishkek:
2800 USD/per person
Visa support (if necessary)
Border zone access permit
All transfers (in accordance with program)
Return helicopter flight Karkara — North Inylchek with no limit of luggage
Guest-house or hotel accommodation on half twin base in Almaty/Bishkek
Lunch-boxes on the way to Base Camp and back
Full board in Base Camps «Karkara» (3 days only) and «North Inylchek»
Accommodation in double tents in Base Camps
Dining-tent and Kitchen-tent in Base Camps
Cooking accessories in Base Camps
Consultations of experience guide
Interpreter’s service in Base Camps
Medical aid in Base Camps (including complete set of oxygen equipment — mask, reducer, cylinder)
Radio support therefore you have to bring your own portable radio
Permanent source of Electricty in Base Camp «Karkara», 220V 50Hz
Power generator (220V) for lighting and charging in the evening time in Base Camp «North Inylchek»
Washing cabin and sauna in Base Camp
Toilets in BC and ABC
Evacuation of garbage from BC and ABC
Price doesn’t include:
Cost of visa
Cost of rescue team support (Depends on difficulty of rescue works)
Personal climbing equipment
High altitude climbing tents
Food away from base camps
Cost of additional services in 2019
Guide service from «South» side:
1 guide for 1 person – 1600 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 1800 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 2100 USD
Guide and porter service from «North» side:
1 guide for 1 person – 2000 USD
1 guide for 2 persons – 3400 USD
1 guide for 3 persons – 4000 USD
Porter service (carries up to 9kg per day up to Camp 3) – 1600 dollars
Rent of Equipment:
Rent of high altitude tent «South» route – 80 USD per tent for climbing period.
Rent of high altitude tent «North» route – 215 USD per tent for climbing period.
Gas cartridge Kovea (230ml, screw) – 10 USD per cartridge.
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