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Peak Amangeldy climbing from Almaty
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Peak Amangeldy climbing from Almaty

On East crest from the lane Pioneer.

From a meteorological station of Mynzhylki to rise on Alpingrad and further on a track towards a glacier Mametovoj. To the left of lake between peaks the Pioneer and Amangeldy are passing Pioneer. To rise on pass doesn’t follow.

Lifting under the route beginning is desirable for beginning earlier, without reaching pass to curtail to the left under a wall of peak of Amangeldy. The approach to a wall goes on a slope between rocky islands. Having passed between rocky islands to go along a wall in a pass direction. To go to that place where the kind on a glacier of Bogdanovicha opens. Here a rocky wall of peak adjoins a crest going from pass.

From here the route begins. Route passage is desirable for beginning not on a fireplace hammered in the top part by stones, and more to the left of meters on ten on a deep crevice. The crevice deduces on a narrow horizontal shelf, to pass on it to kuluar with stones (carefully stones!) to cross kuluar in the bottom part and to leave on a small platform, from it free climbing to rise on a wall of 10 m to the following small platform.

From here on an inclined crevice to leave on a crest. Movement on it complicates ice and wet rocks. Before an exit from a fireplace to pass to its right wall, on it to rise on a platform.

From a platform to rise on strongly destroyed rocks (70 – 80), then on a sharp crosspiece to bottom of a topmost tower. Having rounded it from the south on rocks of average difficulty, to leave on a topmost tower (from it circuses of glaciers of Bogdanovicha and the Tuyuk-Su are well looked through).

Descent in a southwest direction.

Recommendations:

1. Quantity of participants 8 – 10 persons.

2. An initial bivouac – Alpingrad.

3. An exit from a bivouac at 6 o’clock.

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