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Peak Molodezhniy climbing from Almaty
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Peak Molodezhniy climbing from Almaty

From the lane Molodezhniy

The route description. The fanlike top Molodezhniy is located in northwest branch of the Few-Almaty spur. On its southwest slope powerful taluses lie down, and the northeast slope is covered by snow and ice. The file of top and its northeast crest are the basic power supply of a glacier Molodezhniy in the extent of 2,5 km, the area of 2 sq. km.

From an initial bivouac on a glacier moraine to cross shaft, to leave on a glacier a little above its language. To move in the middle of a glacier to bottom of a slope of pass. Molodezhniy (3735м). The slope snow, in the end of a season has sites of naked ice a steepness 30-35 °.

Peak Molodezhniy climbing from Almaty

From here begin lifting on a crest, directly upwards being guided by group of rocks, in left-hand side it is not recommended – it is possible to cause an avalanching. The crest leads so-called “chicken breast” is an abrupt site of snow or ice, is overcome with the insurance on a handrail or manages on rocks. Extent of a site about 40 m, steepness to 50 °.

For “chicken breast” an exit on a top shoulder the small snow plateau, from here to top goes lifting on snow and a rather sloping and small talus. Top – a wide snow plateau with the rests of the destroyed crest on which round is combined.

Descent on a northeast crest. Meeting gendarmes easily manage. The insurance in places is necessary. Having reached the two-horned gendarme it is possible to be released from the basic ropes and on a small talus to go down to the Tuyuk-Su glacier.

Having overcome moraines of glaciers of the Tuyuk-Su and Molodezhniy, to leave to a place of an initial bivouac. The ascension occupies 7-8 hours.

Recommendations:

1. The quantity of participants isn’t limited.

2. An initial bivouac on an ancient moraine of a glacier Molodezhniy.

3. An exit from a bivouac at 6 o’clock.

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