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Tuyuk Su Peak climbing from Almaty
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Tuyuk Su Peak climbing from Almaty

Tuyuk Su Peak climbing from Almaty

The Tuyuk Su Peak top is in the Maloalmatinsky spur on the southwest from the pass with the same name in height of 4100 m. the Snezhno-ice crest with freakish snow eaves connects it to a file of the Needle of the Tuyuk Su Peak. On the northwest the rocky crest with sharp differences of height departs. On northern and western slopes a considerable freezing, southern are strongly destroyed, east, going down towards gorge of Left Talgara, are covered by taluses and sites of strongly destroyed rocks.

From pass the ascension begins on a wide northeast crest. On its East side powerful eaves (carefully hang down!). Through 70м the crest goes down, becomes snow, with sites of easy rocks a little, and through 200м the key place of a route – a 5-meter ice wall is reached. Here depending on a crest condition on an ice axe or an ice hook it is necessary to hang a rope for descent and lifting.

Through 50 m from a wall the approach to easy rocks and on them – on top from South side. It rises over a crest on 120м and represents a heap of rocky blocks. Time for an ascension 8 – 9 hours, from them 3,5 – 4 hours on descent.

1. Quantity of participants – no more than 6 persons.

2. An initial bivouac on a glacier moraine Youth.

3. An exit from a bivouac at 6 o’clock.

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